A project we undertook for a good client recently involved converting a natural wood burning fireplace into a gas one. While I myself prefer a nice wood burning fireplace that crackles when you throw a log onto it, gas-fed ones a more popular, certainly with our clients. I can see why; they are generally safer for children, they’re cleaner and require no more effort than flicking a switch, and they look like a great upgrade, if finished nicely. Some people ask us if its difficult to convert to gas, or costly, but in all honesty its not the construction that can be challanging, its the design. popping in a gas insert and running gas is reletively simple. There is code to adhere to of course, and you must have a gas professional ensuring everything is safe and vented. Indeed most quality inserts are zero clearance now, meaning there is no issue running combustable material right up to the insert, such as drywall and wood studs. No, whats difficult, if you are just starting the process of renovating your fireplace, is choosing a design you want.

Type in ‘fireplace’ into a browser search on your computer will give you thousands of images to stare out, all similar in their function, and yet all different in their design. You see building a mantle and surround for your new gas fireplace offers you a chance of some nice custom work. And if its going to be custom, then lets get it perfect. Yet after seeing hundreds of photos, they can all seem to blend into eachother, and none truely satisfying your need for the ‘perfect’ fireplace. The advice we offer our clients is to look at some pictures and choose a broad style that appeals such as classic, modern, chic, rustic, ect. Perhaps find 2 or 3 fireplaces in that style and highlight what you like about each. We can then pull all your favourite aspects into one design, to make it yours. Or if you feel really brave let your renovator suprise you with a design based on your direction and suggestions. But dont be bound by what you see on the internet, or try to find that perfect one. Its going to be a custom piece, you are free to make it look as conventional or as individual as you like.

Ultimately the fireplace should complement both the space it inhabits and the house in general. It can either be subtle or a showpiece, but all should be in a place that allows people to enjoy it. Get your gas installer or general contractor to explan how the gas is run, where the exhaust is vented, and if the chimney capping is correctly mounted (to avoid future issues). Once a year maintenance is required, so arrange with your installer to do so, perhaps when he or she is checking the furnace. Finally, once completed, enjoy your new cosy space and think about your next upgrade…after your hot chocolate.

Its a question we get quite often when discussing a basement renovation with a new client. We spend time finding out what the client wants or needs from the space, offer our suggestions or solutions, finalise a starting layout, and then discuss the logistics of the project. Sometimes we get a suprised look, sometimes a look of subtle disbelief. The simple answer to the question is that we undertake one large project at a time; your renovation gets our full attention until it is complete.

We have a team of resources we utilise for most our larger projects. These include master electrician and plumber, tile setter, tapers, painter, carpenter, carpet installer and more. They are fast, efficient and professional, and know what we expect for our clients in terms of construction and finishing. Some can be working on-site at the same, for example the electrician and plumber. Others such as the carpet installer or the tapers need the space to themselves, and everyone is kept out while they work. So having the right team of professionals, a clear remit from the client, and your project as the focal point of our business, the renovation process is a smooth and organised operation. Mark and myself remain on-site at all times, we have plenty of our own work to do as well, to manage the minor issues that can arise, and keep the momentum going.

Another important consideration for us in the basement renovation process is keeping your home clean, with as little interruption to your family life as possible. Our trades are booked to come to the site at specific times, there is no turning up ‘when they have time’. They usually call us when they arrive so we can meet them at the door and escort them down. We lay down dust sheets to the basement everyday to protect your floors, and remove before we go home. We seal up the furnace and other mechanical equipment to protect from dust, and any vents or intakes too. All doorways are sealed also, to keep dust movement to a minimum. And on the day the tapers sand the walls and ceiling we use extract fans to contain the airborne dust even more. Lastly at the end of each day we tidy and sweep the renovation area so you can inspect the work comfortably each evening. All power tools are disconnected and batteries removed for child safety. Taking such measures helps to keep your home running as normal, and importantly keep any mess to an absolute minimum.

So with experienced trades, good organisation and a clear focal point any average basement size could be properly finished in three weeks or less. Rather than attempting to complete 2 or 3 basements at once, not giving anyone dedicated attention, and dragging out the process for weeks or months, we focus entirely on yours. And while we are busy with that, we simply get our next one ready to start after completion. Its a business model that works well for us, and of course well for our clients too. If you are thinking of finishing your basement why not give us a call today and see what we can do for you.

 
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Extending your property either outwards or up or even both can be a momentous undertaking. If done right it can also add great value to your property and give your home a new lease of life. Regardless of scope it should be planned out thoroughly with everyone involved, and done so with someone that can guide you and the project past a minefeild of potentially expensive mistakes.

Whether you decide to manage your own extention project or hire a contractor to do so is a choice you will need to evaluate. A good contractor will not only manage the whole process with you, they will also ensure you are kept well informed of progress and momentum. They will also ensure all changes to the plan are implemented as smoothly as possible (believe me there will always be changes as the project unfolds!).

A good architect is a close second in terms of resources for your project. They will help you conceptualise your dream home with structure and design. As well as providing the blueprints for the build their imput and direction will ensure your build is to code, adheres to the correct construction methods, and provide you or your contractor with a roadmap to successful completion. To get the appropriate permits from the City you will need to ensure the construction is sound, fire code is followed, the foundation is correctly poured, and many other considerations. They will come to inspect the work at regular intervals, so the experience of both your contractor and your architect will help the project meet all criteria set by the City. Each contractor working on the project will have his or her set of legal codes to follow whether its the plumbing, excavator, carpenter, electrician, truss supplier, brick layer, and so on.

Each trade should be registered, insured and experienced in the work they are carrying out for you. Their work should be inspected and checked, and warranties submitted for their work. Due dilligence is critical on projects of this scale as budget, both time and money, can spiral out of control if not managed properly and thoroughly.

Building an extension is an exciting process, its not all stress and worrying. Seeing your home literally changing into another building is a personal experience that can be vastly enjoyable and satisfying. Increasing the value of your home is also satisfying, knowing the money you spent on the renovation is invested for the future. At least this type of inveting can be enjoyed by you and your family everyday you are living in it…
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Kids have gone back to school, the summer feels like it has gone, and the odd leaf starts to fall….Basement season has surely started. Like clockwork we start getting phone calls and emails from folks that want their basements finished and renovated, ready for the colder months ahead. Most have a good idea of what they want in terms of layout and functionality of the space. Some look for advice and guidance. They know that Mark and I have seen and renovated a fair few basements in our time, and like to know what they can and cant do.
Currently we are renovating two basements in Mississauga. One will be a family room with bathroom and home theatre, but the other is an in-law suite with a twist. We are taking out the wrap around construction stairs and having our carpenter put in a new set of custom stairs for a chair lift to be fitted. Our clients are looking to have a relative move in and the stair lift will offer far greater ease of access for her. I’ll confess I have never seen one being put in, and am looking forward to seeing it in action once fitted.  But its a great illustration of how flexible a new space in the basement can be, with a little forward planning and some research. We will finish off the rest of the basement as we normally would; checking for any moisture issues before throwing up walls, putting down a quality sub-floor, insulating the walls for maximum energy efficiency. A small kitchenette will also go in, as well as a  full bathroom, living room, and bedroom.
Rental spaces are also getting popular. We have just booked a basement renovation that will turn their unused basement into a self-contained rental apartment. As well as the usual living spaces, we will also be putting in a walk-out that will serve as the tennants’ own entrance, and a couple larger windows to maximise the natural light. Once renovated the apartment will provide the Homeowners a great source of income for the time they live in the house, and fantastic re-sale value when they decide to move on. Such homes can really increase their value once a basement  apartment has been put in, and easily double the investment of the renovation, or more. After all, with a fantastic looking basement apartment practically paying your mortgage, and no sharing of your own family space upstairs, who wouldn’t be tempted in buying such a house?
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Whenever our renovation or construction projects require us to insulate the area we have a discussion with the client on types of insulation on the market. We insulate our homes to keep them warm in colder months and cool in the summer ones. Exterior walls in your home should have an insulation value of R17. This is the minimum value that code says will work effectively. Afterall who wants to spend thousands on a fantastic basement or kitchen renovation to find it too cold to enjoy when the winter winds are blowing outside? So what options are there?
By far the most common types of insulation are fibreglass batts. They are cheap, quick to apply, and come in various strengths of insualtion value. However they do require a vapour barrier, and are perfect housing for pests like mice and ants. Rigid foam is also popular, particulary for areas of historical dampness or tight spots, but their R value is relatively low, and tuck taping rigid foam for moisture-tightness is a pain. Spray foam however has my full vote, and I highly recommend it has a quality product to all my clients.

In recent years spray foam has really taken off due to accessibility of it to the homeowner, and the benefits it offers. Its considered environmentally friendly as many foams are soya-based and release very little in VOC’s (harmful gases). Applied properly it will give you an R value for 7 per square inch (in a 2×4 studded wall that gives you an R value of almost 25) so the potential savings in heating and cooling costs of your home are considerable. It also negates the need for a vapour barrier as it completely seals the walls, it is quick to apply, and will not provide a home to mould and spores like batts do, as air movement is eliminated. The main downside is its inital cost, which is what many can focus on. As a quality product that needs to be applied with specialist equipment and by professionals that have been trained, it will cost more that the other types of insulation. However that cost is more than recoupriated in a few short years in what it will save you on living costs.

So when you are confronted with what insulation to use on your next renovation consider the benefits of spray foam. I have my own professional supplier that I use when needed, and he does a fantastic job for me. I would be happy to pass you on to him for further information on this great technology. keep cool!
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So you have decided (or have been told…?) to renovate the kitchen and are about to re-mortgage the house to pay for it. Well it has to be expensive right, even if I do myself? Perhaps not.
There are some quick wins that will facelift large volumes of space without costing half your budget. Paint the walls, repaint the ceiling replace window and wall trims are all relatively cheap tasks to do that will add freshness and impact to the space. But if you have good condition wood cabinet doors they can be stripped and restained or painted to look new. The best bit…you can do yourself and save hundreds of dollars. Its a simple process of steps that each take a couple of hours.

Take the cabinet doors off and remove all the hardware. If you can number each door so you know the return sequence to save a little guessing time. Each door needs a generous application of furniture stripper to remove the majority of stain/paint. Follow instructions on the tin and please observe the safety bit, stripper burns skin as well as paint. Once stripped and cleaned with mineral spirits you can go to work on it with a random orbital sander, dremmel, sandblock or plain old sandpaper, whatever your liking. The idea is to remove the last bits and to expose the grain and pores of the wood.

Once your door is clean and naked, use a stain conditioner to prime the wood for staining. This is to seal the wood to ensure the stain adheres equally, and minimises blotches. Remember to use water-based conditioner for water-based stain and visa versa. If you are painting the doors a good quality primer before your oil/latex paint is required, with a light sand down once dried. Now primed you can add two coats of stain, allowing for dry time in-between, and two coats or more of a protective coating such as varnish. Very light sands in-between these will give you a nice smooth surface. Once dried completely they can have the hardware attached and put back on their respective cupboards (remember the numbering?).

Voila! New kitchen cupboards for a hundred dollars of materials and a few hours of your spare time. Only decision now is what to spend all those dollars on you saved….takeout??
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Spring is finally in full swing; birds are nesting, flowers are blooming and lawns are being cut. And now we are all outside firing up the barbeques and doing some gardening, some are itching to build the first project of the season. For many a new shed is first on the list. Whether a small workshop, a hangout, a playroom for the kids or simply for storage, a shed built well can easily last decades, and compliment any space. You can buy a pre-fab shed anywhere these days; big box stores, on-line, local paper but they dont have the greatest reputation for lastibility or strength. Plastic or resin sheds have no strength at all, and although are marketed as ‘low maintenance’ can be more hastle than you realise due to our contrasting weather conditions affecting the material and construction. So why not build one yourself? A small to meduim size shed can be done in a day if you have help, and if you plan out your construction, its rather simple.

All the sheds I build for clients are done so with 2×4 lumber. Anything less is not good enough for structure in my opinion. Joists, studs and rafters all 2×4. The joists are different in that they need to be pressure treated for lastability, set 16 OC for strength. This part of the shed will be closest to the ground and therefore to snow and moisture. I generally frame sheds 24″ OC and bolster the 8 corners of the walls with 2ft long 2×4 for extra rigidity. The floor sits on the joists and 3/4″ flooring is thick enough to eliminate any bounce and give you a good solid base. Of course the joists’ should be off the ground, and concrete pavers can be used to do this inexpensively. With the foundation solid and walls built, the sheathing can be applied. Unless Im asked otherwise, I only use Smartside panelling. Once applied and painted it carries a 30yr guarantee, which truely is low maintenance. Being only 3/8″ thick its easy to attach, and looks fanatstic, molded on cedar panelling. Overall a quality product that is durable and cost effective. The roof rafters are then attached, 16OC again for strength,  and then the roof sheathing. Generally I use OSB or ply sheets. Once completed, drip edges applied, shingling can commence. Almost done, just a lick of paint (the Smartside come pre-primed), a few final touches (doors, windows, flower boxes, ect), and then stand back and enjoy the view.

The process is simple, and once you have your dimensions you can work out exactly what you need and how much. While you are waiting for your lumber order to arrive you can prepare the ground where your shed will sit. It needs to be flat and stable, and to have all vegetation to be removed. Of course you can also hire me to construct you shed. My photo gallery contains a slideshow that illustrates how I build sheds, and also photos of a few sheds I built last season. These sheds are extremely hardy and strong. They also weigh a ton, and due to the quality materials used in the construction, their lifespan is extremely good (I would suggest at least 25 yrs).

So wether you build, buy or watch (someone else build) be sure its the right shed for you, and spend quality time on the foundation. Good Luck!
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When starting a painting project some people tend to rush in and start slapping the paint on the walls thinking it doesnt really matter how you do it, it will look fine when its dry. Unfortunately this is not the case. Like all projects there is a sequence that should be followed, and materials that will give you a professional look.
Clearing the room of everything moveable goes without saying, and good dropcloths and covers for the floors and anything remaining should go down. Sanding down the walls with a sanding block and filling in any divots or scratches with drywall compound is time well spent. If you are painting over an existing light coloured paint you may want to skip the primer, but I recommend using it if the old and new colours differ quite a bit. Once sanded and primed I always do my cutting in first. Using a quality cutting brush I paint the tops, bottoms, windows and corners; anywhere an edge exists. Corners too. I try to do so liberally, watching for dripmarks, as I want to minimise any brushstrokes. Then to the rolling. With a evenly saturated roller I run it halfway up the wall and back again in a smooth motion, and continue this along the wall until the roller needs filling up again, usually three passes. Once filled again I roll the upper half of the wall in the same motion until I reach the third pass. Each time I roll I lead with the handle end a press slightly into it. This will minimise paint lines drastically and will give you an even finish. I continue this sequence around the room until I return to my starting point. I will also run the roller as close to the edges as possible to ‘melt’ the rolled paint and brushed paint together, making it look seemless. Watch for debris such as dust and fluff that may end up on your newly painted wall as you go.

As for materials, you get what you pay for. Most paints will need two coats for a deep finish, but some paints are exceptional in quality and may only need one coat (such as Benjamin Moore brand). The new Bher paint with primer already in it is awesome! I have use this on new bare drywall, no additional primer, and has given me a great finish in just one coat. It costs a little more than other brands, but saves me valuable time and gives me an awesome finish. I use it in all my renovations now. Paint trays are generally all the same, just ensure it is totally clean. And find a roller with a comfortable handle. If you are going to be painting for a few hours wrist ache should be avoided.

As with everything preparation is the key, and the quality of your products. Spend wisely and you will have a finish that will look professional and set the tone for the whole room.
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When deciding to update or modernise your bathroom its easy to get carried away with the latest styles and fashions, and furniture that looks great. Looking through those magazines of spa-like retreats of the rich and famous inspires our creative minds. Although Im all for creating fantastic rooms, I try to keep a realistic and forward-thinking head on my shoulders. For rooms to be enjoyable they need to be spaceous. Filling a bathroom with extra furniture until it is not comfortable to move, just becase they look stylish, is doing no-one any favours. Any decorating in a style that looks unfashionable before your grout has dried is a potential waste of money.
Bathrooms need space. Not just for practicality, but to encourage you to relax while you pamper. If space is at a premium try to maximise your floor space with storage units recessed into the wall studs, or a floating vanity. You can even recess shelving in the tub area to hold your soaps, keeping the tub free of clutter. A pocket door can also help to make the room feel larger, as would large mirrors set into the walls (although hard to see body areas may come under the scrutiny of a critical eye!).
As for style try to find a classic look that appeals to you and the family. Subway tile comes in and out of fashion, but you should be safe with soft tones or white. A motif of small mosaics in a room of large wall tiles can raise the look of the room from ‘nice’ to ‘gorgeous’ just by breaking up the flow a little. Hanging lighting can look great, but recessed spot lighting can give a modern look to a bathroom, and they rarely leave the fashion magazines. And if you are lucky enough to have lots of natural light, darker shades like expresso or granite may take your fancy.
Ultimately the flow of the bathroom and the decor style should be investigated and played with as part of your planning stage. Flick through some magazines, go to some showrooms, and take your time with your decisions. A great bathroom with mass appeal will add to your enjoyment as well as the resale value of your home, and the extra time you took to plan its transformation will be well spent!
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One of the most rewarding carpentry projects I enjoy is constructing storage such as shelving. There are many reasons why, but one of the biggest is what the storage unit stands for…organisation! Whether building for a client or for my own home, constructing a great piece of storage furniture will eliminate a messy area somewhere in the home. But one of the initial decisions to be made in such a project is; Do we want a built-in unit or some free standing ones?

The great thing about built-ins is that they look fantastic, are custom made so you can design the ideal one for you, and that they add great resale value to your home. The downside is that if you do move home you cannot take they with you, or indeed move them to another part of the home, and are generally more expensive than free standing shelving.
A major plus of free standing storage, like a custom oak bookcase or cabinet is that it is movable. A storage room could become a bedroom or nursery in the future, and your free standing unit could simply moved to another room. They are generally not as big as built ins so are less dominating and less expensive. And because they can be moved with ease your custom unit could eventually become a bit of a family heirloom, passed down the family. A well made cabinet or dresser will last decades.

So my advice to clients wanting more storage is to think about these factors and decide what is best for them; the splendor of room-defining built ins, housing your entertainment equipment, books, or childrens toys and games? Or a set of free standing units that can compliment a fireplace or lounge, matching your hardwood floor and melt away into the background? Whatever you decide, or even if you cannot decide, one thing I have lots of are books about storage, and all the different options available. I would be happy to go through some ideas and designs to help your home organisation needs, and find the ideal solution for you. Afterall there is no such thing as too much storage!
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